https://sewingladyblog.com/about/2025-10-28T00:13:26+00:00weekly0.6https://sewingladyblog.com/its-all-in-the-detail/2025-10-28T00:12:17+00:00weekly0.6https://sewingladyblog.com/2017/02/03/curves-and-corners-marfy-3879/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-1b-shaped-hem-band-added-to-left-back1.jpgphoto-1b-shaped-hem-band-added-to-left-backhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-1a-overlay-extended-over-the-back-left-shoulder.jpgphoto-1a-overlay-extended-over-the-back-left-shoulderAdded detail to back shoulderhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-21-lhs-exposed-zipper-stop-rhs-hidden-zipper-stop.jpgphoto-21-lhs-exposed-zipper-stop-rhs-hidden-zipper-stophttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-20-finished-facing-with-hook-and-eye-attached.jpgphoto-20-finished-facing-with-hook-and-eye-attachedhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-19-finished-stitching-at-back-neckline.jpgphoto-19-finished-stitching-at-back-necklinehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-18-use-zipper-foot-to-stitch-pocket-to-hide-zipper-stops.jpgphoto-18-use-zipper-foot-to-stitch-pocket-to-hide-zipper-stopshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-17-use-zipper-foot-to-attach-seam-allowances-beside-zipper-teeth.jpgphoto-17-use-zipper-foot-to-attach-seam-allowances-beside-zipper-teethhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-16-zipper-tape-folded-back-so-it-is-not-caught-in-facing-seam.jpgphoto-16-zipper-tape-folded-back-so-it-is-not-caught-in-facing-seamhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-15b-facing-shoulder-seam-hand-under-stitched-to-seam-allowances.jpgphoto-15b-facing-shoulder-seam-hand-under-stitched-to-seam-allowanceshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-15a-facing-hand-under-stitched-to-seam-allowances-at-underarm.jpgphoto-15a-facing-hand-under-stitched-to-seam-allowances-at-underarm2017-02-03T05:02:34+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2017/01/09/elegant-in-pink-vogue-9148/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/img_4110.jpgimg_4110During construction - before hem and final steam press.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/bamboo-point-turner-can-be-used-as-a-pressing-aid-in-narrow-tube.jpgbamboo-point-turner-can-be-used-as-a-pressing-aid-in-narrow-tubehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/img_4111.jpgimg_4111https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/img_4110.jpgimg_4110https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/img_4072.jpgimg_4072https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/img_4045.jpgimg_4045https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/front-cross-over-piece-fell-tacked-from-the-right-side-to-hold-it-in-position-before-machine-stitching-in-place.jpgfront-cross-over-piece-fell-tacked-from-the-right-side-to-hold-it-in-position-before-machine-stitching-in-placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/finished-neck-edge.jpgfinished-neck-edgeFinished neck edgehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/finished-front-bodice-seam.jpgfinished-front-bodice-seamFinished front bodice seam catch stitched in place to underlining - this same method was subsequently used on all seamshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/v9148.jpgv9148Vogue 91482017-02-03T05:05:52+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2016/12/21/sizzling-summer-style-vogue-1498/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/img_4263.jpgimg_4263https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/v1498-a.jpgv1498-ahttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/zipper-shield-in-place.jpgzipper-shield-in-placePetersham ribbon zipper shield in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-13e-pull-front-sections-through-shoulders.jpgphoto-13e-pull-front-sections-through-shouldersPull front sections through shouldershttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-13d-grade-seam-allowances.jpgphoto-13d-grade-seam-allowancesGrade seam allowanceshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-13c-stitch-lining-and-garment-at-armhole-edges.jpgphoto-13c-stitch-lining-and-garment-at-armhole-edgesStitch lining and garment at armhole edgeshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-13b-stitch-lining-to-neck-edge-grade-and-under-stitch.jpgphoto-13b-stitch-lining-to-neck-edge-grade-and-under-stitchStitch lining to neck edge; grade and understitchhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-13a-join-shoulder-seams-of-lining-and-garment.jpgphoto-13a-join-shoulder-seams-of-lining-and-garmentJoin shoulder seams of lining and garmenthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-12b-zipper-shield-in-place.jpgphoto-12b-zipper-shield-in-placeZipper shield in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/photo-12a-zipper-shield-attached-by-hand.jpgphoto-12a-zipper-shield-attached-by-handZipper shield attached by hand2016-12-22T08:50:56+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2016/12/05/why-sew-your-own-clothes-2/2016-12-12T09:31:57+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/12/26/ease-and-pattern-sizing-part-2/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3886.jpgIMG_3886Under bust to waist measurement.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3885.jpgIMG_3885Bust point to under bust - straight measurement down from centre of bust to the level of bra underwire.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3884.jpgIMG_3884Highest shoulder point to bust point.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3883.jpgIMG_3883Working on front bodice, extend centre front line and square a line from the highest shoulder point to the centre front. When using a pattern with a narrower shoulder seam and lower neckline, extend the shoulder seam to the base of the neck stem and use this new point to square a line to the centre front.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_38821.jpgIMG_3882Angle Locatorhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3881.jpgIMG_3881Bodice back with seam allowances and horizontal reference lines marked.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3874.jpgIMG_3874Original pattern shoulder seam 15 degrees below highest shoulder point. Customised shoulder seam is 22 degrees below highest shoulder point.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3873.jpgIMG_3873https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3872.jpgIMG_3872Digital angle ruler set to 21 degrees. Draw new shoulder line position.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/img_3871.jpgIMG_3871An inexpensive angle ruler can be used to measure the original shoulder level which is measured along the line squared from the centre front at the highest shoulder point.2016-12-06T02:17:40+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/11/29/ease-and-pattern-sizing/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/bodice.jpgBodiceTorso reference points2016-02-02T11:17:38+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/10/11/a-good-clean-cut/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3654.jpgIMG_3654Turn work to right side and gently release the thread which was cut away underneath; remove remaining fluff with thread eraser.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3652.jpgIMG_3652A buttonhole mess - gently and slowly pass the blade over the underside of the stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3649.jpgIMG_3649Seam opens ahead of the unpicker.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3646.jpgIMG_3646Insert red ball on the end of the unpicker between the stitches and push forward to open the seam.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3644.jpgIMG_3644Clamp fabric and pull the seam to be unpicked until it is tauthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3643.jpgIMG_3643The way most sewists were taught to use an unpicker - slide the blade under and break the stitches.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3641.jpgIMG_3641Third hand bird and clamphttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3640.jpgIMG_3640Clover thread tweezers - a new acquisition and they are superb!https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3639.jpgIMG_3639Gingher Duckbill applique scissors and Havel's lace scissorshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_3638.jpgIMG_3638Paper scissors and Soft Canary Dressmaking Shears and Serrated Shears2015-10-11T09:41:48+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/09/14/some-wonderful-sewing-books/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/cook-couture-construction-secrets-for-runway-style.jpgCook Couture - Construction Secrets for Runway StyleCool Couture - Construction Secrets for Runway Style by Kenneth D Kinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/famous-frocks-by.jpgFamous Frocks byFamous Frocks by Dolin Bliss O'Sheahttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/famous-frocks-by-sara-alm-and-hannah-mcdevitt.jpgFamous Frocks by Sara Alm and Hannah McDevittFamous Frocks by Sara Alm and Hannah McDevitthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/img_3596.jpgIMG_3596https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/img_3595.jpgIMG_3595Commonsense Dresscutting and Drafting for Adults; Simplicity Sewing Book; The Vogue Sewing Bookhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/vogue-sewing-created-by-sixth-spring-books.jpgVogue Sewing - Created by Sixth & Spring BooksVogue Sewing Revised and Updatedhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/threads-sewing-guide-taunton-press.jpgThreads Sewing Guide - Taunton PressThreads Sewing Guidehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/the-complete-photo-guide-to-perfect-fitting-by-sarah-veblen.jpgThe Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah VeblenThe Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fittinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/the-mood-guide-to-fabric-and-fashion.jpgThe Mood Guide to Fabric and FashionThe Mood Guide to Fabric and Fashionhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/teach-yourself-to-sew-taunton-press.jpgTeach Yourself to Sew - Taunton PressTeach Yourself to Sew2015-09-14T12:17:27+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/09/07/some-thoughts-on-fabric-layout-and-construction-order/2015-09-07T09:45:10+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/31/the-importance-of-inner-structure-part-2/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3589.jpgIMG_3589Basic instructions for using horesehair braid.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3586.jpgIMG_3586Polyester horsehair braid in various widths will support hem of full skirt. 5cm width can also be used to support top of strapless bodice.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3584.jpgIMG_3584Straight shoulder edge pads - long end goes towards the front of the garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3583.jpgIMG_3583Shoulder pad styles" Top left: straight shoulder edge Top right: raglan shoulder with attachment tab Bottom right: moulded raglan Bottom left: moulded raglanhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3582.jpgIMG_3582Smooth side lies against fabric; machine stitch in narrow lip on either side.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3581.jpgIMG_3581Polyester boning 12mm wide.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3580.jpgIMG_3580Spiral boning with capped ends; insertion tape.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2902.jpgIMG_2902Ends of boning are covered for the comfort of the wearer.2017-02-10T05:54:25+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/23/the-importance-of-inner-structure-part-1/2017-02-10T09:32:56+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/01/inserting-zippers-part-5-exposed-zipper-and-separating-zipper/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_2863.jpgIMG_2863Centre zip against wrong side and stitch in place.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_2866.jpgIMG_2866Reverse of exposed zip. By keeping the full width of the seam allowance, there will be no chance of the harsh metal teeth rubbing skin.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/this-is-how-the-zipper-will-look.jpgThis is how the zipper will lookhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_2887.jpgIMG_2887Underside of zipper.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2886.jpgIMG_2886Facing side of zipper which has been sandwiched between layers.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2885.jpgIMG_2885Open invisible zipper.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2884.jpgIMG_2884Textured wool jacket with invisible open end zip.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2883.jpgIMG_2883Lining stitched close to underside of teeth and understitched by hand.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2882.jpgIMG_2882Concealed front closure with open end zipper.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2877.jpgIMG_2877Fold fabric at the bottom of the zipper up over the teeth to reveal the triangle at the base of the zipper. Stitch across.2015-08-21T08:40:04+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/02/08/inserting-zippers-part-2-lapped-zipper-inserted-by-machine/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-17-thread-bar-stitched-on-lhs-at-cb.jpgPhoto 17 Thread bar stitched on LHS at CBThread bar on underside; hook on upper side.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-16-hook-stitched-on-rhs.jpgPhoto 16 Hook stitched on RHSFinished top of garment - no bulk.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-15-finished-zipper-insertion.jpgPhoto 15 Finished zipper insertionFinished zipper insertion.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-14-underside-when-both-sides-of-zipper-stitched-in-place.jpgPhoto 14 Underside when both sides of zipper stitched in placeUnderside when both sides of zipper stitched in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-13-align-fold-on-rhs-with-cb-on-lhs-and-pin-in-place.jpgPhoto 13 Align fold on RHS with CB on LHS and pin in placeAlign fold on RHS with CB on LHS and pin in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-12-fold-top-of-tape-above-coil-under-and-stitch-to-top.jpgPhoto 12 Fold top of tape above coil under and stitch to topFold top of tape above coil under and stitch to tophttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-11-stitch-in-place-allowing-space-for-zipper-pull.jpgPhoto 11 Stitch in place allowing space for zipper pullStitch in place allowing space for zipper pullhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-10-position-lhs-of-zipper-under-folded-seam-allowance.jpgPhoto 10 Position LHS of zipper under folded seam allowancePosition LHS of zipper under folded seam allowancehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-8-turn-facings-right-side-out.jpgPhoto 8 Turn facings right side outTrim seam allowance and understitchhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-7-repeat-on-lhs-and-stitch-facings-in-place-on-both-sides-of-the-zip.jpgPhoto 7 Repeat on LHS and stitch facings in place on both sides of the zipStitch seam through all layers2015-08-21T08:31:32+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/02/15/inserting-zippers-part-3-invisible-zipper/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-23.jpgPhoto 23The perfect result.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-221.jpgPhoto 22The zipper stops are hidden inside the pocket resulting in a much more polished finish.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-211.jpgPhoto 21Add hook and eye and hand stitch the bottom of the facing to the seam allowance.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-20.jpgPhoto 20Stitching on the left is forming the pocket. Next stitching is attaching the zipper followed by stitching which attaches the facing and initial basting.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-191.jpgPhoto 19The edges of the zipper stop remain visible above the pull - a little disappointing.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-181.jpgPhoto 18Attach zipper foot and stitch from the facing seam line along the inside of the seam allowance and close to the zipper teeth.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-171.jpgPhoto 17Facing stitched to the edge - zipper tapes are not caught in the seam.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-161.jpgPhoto 16Facing stitched to the edge - zipper tapes are not caught in the seam.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-151.jpgPhoto 15Stitch ends of tapes to seam allowances so they will not flap up.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-121.jpgPhoto 12Red mark indicates the bottom of zipper stitching. Grey mark indicates start of stitching to close remaining seam.2015-08-21T08:26:49+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/21/photos-have-been-restored/2015-08-22T05:45:28+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/21/inserting-zippers-part-4-fly-zipper/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2833.jpgIMG_2833Use a small zigzag to make a small bartack at CF at the base of the topstitching.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2832.jpgIMG_2832Finished zipper installation with zipper hidden.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2831.jpgIMG_2831Turn work right side up and use template to chalk mark stitching line on front of garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2830.jpgIMG_2830Pin and stitch the other side of the zipper tape to the opposite seam allowance.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2829.jpgIMG_2829Lay the work flat with wrong side of zipper uppermost.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2827.jpgIMG_2827Using zipper foot, stitch on the seam allowance close to the zipper teeth and along the length of the zipper.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2826.jpgIMG_2826Position zip (coils up) under the folded back seam allowance - align the stop to the marked position.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2825.jpgIMG_2825Press seam flat and open. Press a fold on the underside 15mm (5/8") from CFhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2824.jpgIMG_2824Stitch approximately 5cm (2") of crotch seam, finishing at mark indicating bottom of the zipper - back stitch to secure. Lengthen stitch to 4.0 and machine baste the remainder of CF seam.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2822.jpgIMG_2822Interface cut on fly facing and over CF on opposite side.2015-08-21T07:37:56+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2014/09/22/vogue-8957-view-c-bolero/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_35631.jpgIMG_3563https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_35621.jpgIMG_3562https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_35611.jpgIMG_3561https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_35601.jpgIMG_3560https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_3563.jpgIMG_3563https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_3562.jpgIMG_3562https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_3561.jpgIMG_3561https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_3560.jpgIMG_3560https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/v8957.jpgV8957https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/v8957.gifV89572015-08-20T12:57:17+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/02/01/inserting-zippers-part-1/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2851.jpgIMG_2851A selection of open-end zips - Left to right are large plastic teeth; wide chunky teeth; narrow teeth; open end invisible zip.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2848.jpgIMG_2848A selection of open-end zips - Left to right are large plastic teeth; wide chunky teeth; narrow teeth; open end invisible zip.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2847.jpgIMG_2847A selection - Left to right are metal zip; decorative tapes; regular dress zip; lightweight dress zip; metal ziphttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-10-align-top-of-zipper-coil-with-keyed-stitches.jpgPhoto 10 Align top of zipper coil with keyed stitchesAlign top of zipper just under the keyed stitching linehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-9b-clip-stitches-between-raw-edges.jpgPhoto 9b Clip stitches between raw edgesClip stitching to separate.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-9a-keying-the-top-edges-of-seam.jpgPhoto 9a Keying the Top Edges of SeamKeeping cut edges even, stitch just inside the seam allowance across both garment pieces.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-8-fold-edges-of-tape-under.jpgPhoto 8 Fold edges of tape underFold top of tapes back below level of seam line and stitch in place.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-6-longer-zipper.jpgPhoto 6 Longer ZipperAvoid difficulty sewing around zipper pull if attaching a separate waistbandhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-5-staying-seam-allowances.jpgPhoto 5 Staying Seam AllowancesFuse straight grain strips of interfacing to support the seam allowance where zipper is insertedhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-4b-covering-cut-end.jpgPhoto 4b Covering Cut EndFold to other side and stitch in place2019-04-01T10:53:09+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/01/25/getting-the-best-from-fabric-2/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/shot-01-07.jpgShot 01-07Definite pattern which needs to be matched horizontally and vertically.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/photo-24-tack-in-place-around-edges-and-on-diagonal.jpgPhoto 24 Tack in place around edges and on diagonalhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/figure-4-centre-back-with-zipper1.jpgFigure 4 Centre back with zipperMatched at centre back seam with invisible zipper.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/figure-3-centre-front1.jpgFigure 3 Centre FrontMedallion pattern centred at fronthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/figure-2-obvious-pattern1.jpgFigure 2 Obvious patternObvious pattern needs to be matchedhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/figure-1-no-obvious-pattern1.jpgFigure 1 No obvious patternNo obvious pattern to match2015-08-19T11:37:06+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/08/threads-needles-and-pins/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-7-hand-needles-threader1.jpgPhoto 7 - Hand Needles & ThreaderAssorted hand needles and needle threaderhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-6-machine-needle-storage-idea1.jpgPhoto 6 - Machine Needle Storage Ideahttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-5-strawberry-needle-sharpener1.jpgPhoto 5 -Strawberry Needle SharpenerNeedle sharpener "Strawberry"https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-4-machine-needles1.jpgPhoto 4 - Machine NeedlesAn assortment of machine needle types and sizes.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-3-100-silk-for-hand-stitching1.jpgPhoto 3 - #100 Silk for Hand Stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-2-thread-size-information1.jpgPhoto 2 - Thread Size InformationLeft - 50 weight silk for hand or machine stitching Right - 100 weight silk for hand stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-1-thickness-comnparison1.jpgPhoto 1 - Thickness ComnparisonThreads arranged according to thickness - finest to heaviest. From left: Gutermann polyester topstitching Gutermann polyester all purpose Metrosene poly sheen embroidery Metrosene polyester all purposehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/assorted-silk-threads1.jpgAssorted Silk ThreadsTop - #50 silk thread - all purpose Bottom - silk hand buttonhole threadhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2900.jpgIMG_2900How to read the needle package.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2897.jpgIMG_2897Needle storage idea2015-08-19T11:26:29+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/15/buttons-and-machine-buttonholes/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2933.jpgIMG_2933All buttonhole feet have prongs at either end. Wrap thicker thread around the back prong and fasten in the grooves at the opposite end. Stitch the button hole as usual - over the cord. When buttonhole is complete, pull the cord ends and use a hand needle to feed them to the back; trim the tails.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2929.jpgIMG_2929Buttonhole chisel and block; awl and Fray Checkhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2927.jpgIMG_2927Selection of buttonhole styles - stitch a sample of each to make it easier to make a choice.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2926.jpgIMG_2926Top row - rounded shape Bottom row - angular shapehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2925.jpgIMG_2925Left - correct size Middle - larger - seam line needs to be moved out Right - smaller - seam line needs to be moved inhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2921.jpgIMG_2921Flatten the ribbon and measure the length required for the buttonhole (my cat, Beau, decided to help me!)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2919.jpgIMG_2919Wrap ribbon around dome button right beside the shank - underside.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2918.jpgIMG_2918Measuring dome button.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2916.jpgIMG_2916An assortment of my souvenirs from the button shop in Nurses Walk, The Rocks, Sydney.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/diagrams-1-2-and-3-copy.jpgDiagrams 1, 2 and 3 - CopyButton extension should be the button width so that when garment is buttoned, button sits at centre front and there is a space half the width of the button between the edge of the button and the edge of the garment.2017-09-01T08:01:42+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/22/placement-of-buttons-on-tab-placket/2015-08-19T11:04:07+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/22/pressing-matters/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-151.jpgPhoto 15Dart slashed and pressed open will give a flatter garment surface in lined garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-141.jpgPhoto 14https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-14-replacement1.jpgPhoto 14 ReplacementPlace dart over ham with manilla card under the fold and press.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-131.jpgPhoto 13When fabric cools slightly, smooth seam allowance with fingers.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-121.jpgPhoto 12Steam the section being eased - do not allow the iron to touch the fabric.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-111.jpgPhoto 11Press gathers towards seam, spreading them with the point of the iron.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-101.jpgPhoto 10Press tucks from right side using thread marks as a guide to the fold linehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-92.jpgPhoto 9Tacks are clipped to separate garment pieces.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-82.jpgPhoto 8Using a manilla strip cut to the hem depth makes pressing an even hem allowance very easy.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/photo-72.jpgPhoto 7The result is a smooth seam line ready for insertion into armhole.2015-08-19T11:03:00+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/03/29/the-dream-wedding-gown/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2987.jpgIMG_2987The happy couple - Tina and Steve Donovanhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2960.jpgIMG_2960Slight fullness and lower hem to add interest to the back of the gown.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2957.jpgIMG_2957Beautiful cream corded lace on tulle over Duchesse satin underskirthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2937.jpgIMG_2937The final touch - a hand beaded blue flower for luck.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2936.jpgIMG_2936Rayon Petersham waist stay fastens around the waist to keep the skirt in place and take the strain of the zipper when it is being opened and closed.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2934.jpgIMG_2934Elastic stay and Petersham waist stay are lie inside the gown - over the silk lining (inserted by hand).https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2913.jpgIMG_2913A heavy duty invisible zip.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2912.jpgIMG_2912Ribbon hanging loops.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2911.jpgIMG_2911Sleeves were cut unadorned sections of tulle with scalloped border appliqued to the hem. Inserted using hairline seam by machine.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2908.jpgIMG_2908Lace trimming scissors help to avoid nicking the tulle2015-08-17T11:31:30+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/04/05/and-so-to-the-hem/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_30001.jpgIMG_3000https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-18.jpgPhoto 18Carefully pull thread which will cause the hem to roll.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-17.jpgPhoto 17Roll under one third of hem width. Hand stitch in the fold and another third below the cut edge.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-16.jpgPhoto 16Hem using manual method on the left; hem using rolled hem foot on the right.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-15.jpgPhoto 15Roll the hem to the underside; pin in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-14.jpgPhoto 14Resting fabric across your hand, carefully cut fabric right next to the stitching.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-13.jpgPhoto 13Press up the hem while favouring the stitched line just to the underside.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-12.jpgPhoto 12Stitch along the hem at 5/8"/15mm from the cut edge.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-11.jpgPhoto 11Stitch the first section of the hem in place; leaving the needle in the hem, carefully roll the fabric into the curl of the foot - keeping the fabric pulled slightly to the right in the same direction as the marking on the foot.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-10.jpgPhoto 10Pin the first couple of inches/centremetres in place and press the start of the hem.2025-04-09T21:45:45+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/04/14/triangular-bound-buttonholes-2/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3054.jpgIMG_3054Lay the ribbon flat and measure from the fold to the mark. Add 3mm/ 1/8" and this will be the required opening.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3053.jpgIMG_3053Wrap thin ribbon around the button and mark the width.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3052.jpgIMG_3052Front bands are wider at the hem and narrow towards the neckline.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3051.jpgIMG_3051Button sits at the point of the buttonhole.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3049.jpgIMG_3049Position the buttonhole either vertically or horizontally. Vertical buttonholes are centred on centre front line. Horizontal buttons are positioned as above.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3048.jpgIMG_3048Remove tacking stitches and trim the shape.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3047.jpgIMG_3047Fold garment back and stitch just inside former stitching lines.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3046.jpgIMG_3046Position lips with join in centre of hole. Stitch across base.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3044.jpgIMG_3044Fold fabric with right sides out and press.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3043.jpgIMG_3043To make lips for faced method, stitch fabric strips right sides together with long straight stitch.2015-08-17T10:52:52+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/04/18/vogue-1303-kay-unger-dress/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v1303.jpgV1303Kay Unger dress Vogue 1303https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v1303.gifV1303Line drawing Vogue 1303https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v1303-1.jpgV1303 (1)Kay Unger dress Vogue 1303https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3088.jpgIMG_3088Lace added to hem of lining.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3008.jpgIMG_3008Lining mid section hand stitched to garment seam allowance at top of skirt section.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3007.jpgIMG_3007Seam allowances of lining and garment between bodice and underlay stitched togetherhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3006.jpgIMG_3006https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3005.jpgIMG_3005Seam allowances stitched to mid section fabric.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2996.jpgIMG_2996Lining fell stitched to neckline, armholes and along zipper tape.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_2956.jpgIMG_2956Piping was hand stitched to neckline and armholes and machine stitching removed from piping to give a softer finish.2015-08-17T04:15:42+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/04/26/why-do-we-need-to-include-staystitching-and-understitching-in-garment-construction/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/understitching1.jpgUnderstitchingUnderstitching applied to the facing will hold the seam allowances in place and allow a soft roll on the outside of the garment and no facing showing.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/staystitch.jpgStaystitchStaystitching just inside the seam line.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3094.jpgIMG_3094Staystitching in a narrow V instead of right angle still protects the point as it is cut and will not result in staystitching being visible in finished garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3092.jpgIMG_3092Waist staystitching - especially useful when applying a yoke.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3091.jpgIMG_3091V necks are stitched from bottom of V towards shoulder. This will result in both sides of the V laying flat when the garment is complete.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3090.jpgIMG_3090Directional staystitching will preserve the grain2015-08-17T04:05:46+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/05/03/finishing-the-outer-edges/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-14-changed-grain-line.jpgPhoto 14 Changed grain lineBack section of facing will be on bias grain which moulds well to the upper curve of the back.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-13-overlap-seam-lines-at-shoulder.jpgPhoto 13 Overlap seam lines at shoulderOverlap seam lines to make new facing pattern piece.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-12-mark-seam-allowances-on-pattern-pieces.jpgPhoto 12 Mark seam allowances on pattern piecesMark seam allowances on pattern pieces.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-11-clean-finished-edge-of-facing.jpgPhoto 11 Clean finished edge of facingFacing the facing with lightweight fusible interfacing results in a neat, smooth finish on the inside of the garment - no shadow of overlocking can be seen from the right side of a light coloured garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-10-switched-seam.jpgPhoto 10 Switched SeamStitch area which will sit under the facing with wrong sides together; clip and stitch remainder of seam with right sides together.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-9-facing-brought-to-right-side.jpgPhoto 9 Facing brought to right sideFacing is turned to right side and edge stitched in place. This is an alternative to a separate band. Seam allowance is invisible from underside of neck edge.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-61.jpgPhoto 6Roll folded edge back slightly. Hand stitch catching the bias just under the folded edge.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-51.jpgPhoto 5Turn binding at right angles to the seam line. Tack in place so it does not move or ripple.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-5-stitch-tape-in-place.jpgPhoto 5 Stitch tape in placeStitch with tape uppermost. The feed teeth will ease the skirt in place.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/photo-4-mark-tape-at-ss-cb-and-cf.jpgPhoto 4 Mark Tape at SS, CB and CFUse waist seam line on the pattern to measure the tape exactly.2015-08-17T03:59:38+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/05/10/working-with-bias-cut-garments/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3170.jpgIMG_3170Bias garments mould the figure and flow into a beautiful heavy drape towards the hemline.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3167.jpgIMG_3167Stay stitch in direction of greatest stretch - the opposite direction to what is used for on grain fabrics.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3165.jpgIMG_3165To draw a bias grain line, make a small 1"/2cm square box on the side of the existing grain line. Place ruler on opposite diagonal corners and draw a bias grain line.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3164.jpgIMG_3164Centre front panels cut on bias grain. Cut facings on grain for stability.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3163.jpgIMG_3163Mark centre of yoke. Cut apart and add seam allowance. Add bias grain line. Use on grain facing for stability.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3162.jpgIMG_3162Bias cut yoke - line with on grain facinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3159.jpgIMG_3159Serrated blade.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3157.jpgIMG_3157https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3156.jpgIMG_3156Pattern description mentions "bias".https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3155.jpgIMG_3155Bias layout - grainlines parallel to selvage.2025-07-22T11:52:14+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/05/17/before-you-start-sewing/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3189.jpgIMG_3189Marks seen on the right side of the fabric as well.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3187.jpgIMG_3187Marking by hand : L to R - crossed running stitches to mark dots; running stitch parallel to seam to mark notches; thread tracing to mark dart legs; tailor's tack to mark exact pointhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3178.jpgIMG_3178Use a piece of Washi tape or a hand stitch to indicate the wrong side of the fabric.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3174.jpgIMG_3174I prefer to pin within the seam allowance and parallel with the seam line. Make sure corners and the mid point of curves are pinned so they will not move when fabric is being cut.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3173.jpgIMG_3173Use ruler to align grainline and weights to keep the grain line in place while pinning.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3172.jpgIMG_3172Dressmaking shears with rotary cutter, mat and ruler.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3171.jpgIMG_3171A selection of marking implements - dressmaker's carbon and tracing wheel; tailor's chalk and chalk wheel; Frixion pen and Sewline mechanical ceramic marking pencil2015-08-17T03:14:11+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/16/a-great-method-for-adding-a-shirt-collar-and-stand/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3558.jpgIMG_3558Side view with collar turned up at the backhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3556.jpgIMG_3556Collar turned up at the backhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3555.jpgIMG_3555Collar on stand with neckline worn open.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3554.jpgIMG_3554Cllosed at neckhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3553.jpgIMG_3553Back - collar stand rolls nicely with no hint of under collar showing.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3547.jpgIMG_3547Collar stay pocket on under collar.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3545.jpgIMG_3545Start stitching with collar stand on top and approximately 3-4cm/1 1/2" from edge. Stitch to opposite end of collar. Turn work and stitch the remainder of seam towards the other end of the collar. This avoids the possibility of stretching the end of the stand when positioning the machine foot.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3543.jpgIMG_3543https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3542.jpgIMG_3542Collar flipped to inside neck edge and pinned with upper collar to inside of collar stand.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3541.jpgIMG_3541Shirt RS up on flat surface and collar in place as it will be worn.2015-08-16T11:06:12+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/05/25/taming-inset-corners/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v9039.jpgV9039Vogue 9039 Jacket with lots of inset panels and inset collar.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v9039.gifV9039https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v8931.jpgV8931Vogue 8931https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v2401.jpgV2401Vintage Vogue 2401https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/v2401.gifV2401Vintage Vogue 2401https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/issy-top.jpgISSY-TOPStyle Arc Issy Top with back collar stand and inset corner where shoulder seam joins the neck.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3214.jpgIMG_3214Strips of fusible interfacing will protect the pivot point when it is clipped and prevent the stretching of seams.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3213.jpgIMG_3213Seam allowances pressed open at side seams and away from armhole seam in underarm area.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3211.jpgIMG_3211Vintage Vogue 2401https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3210.jpgIMG_3210Face side with seams pressed open - surface is smoother.2015-08-03T11:49:15+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/08/02/binding-curved-edges/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3422.jpgIMG_3422Thermal Thimbles - a great idea! Available from punchwithjudy.com.au or nancysnotions.comhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/photo-61.jpgPhoto 6Hand stitch from just under the fold to the seam stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/photo-51.jpgPhoto 5Once trim has been rolled over edge, tack in place before hand stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/photo-41.jpgPhoto 4Lap approximately 2cm over the stitched trim and stitch in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/photo-31.jpgPhoto 3Start by folding leading end of trim at right angles to cut edge and start stitchinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/photo-11.jpgPhoto 1Joining bias stripshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3138.jpgIMG_3138Bias maker will turn both edges under at the same time ready for the tip of the iron to press them in placehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/023.jpg023Press under 6mm on each side - one at a time is besthttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/022.jpg022Use iron to steam and press a curve - allow to cool before applying to fabrichttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/021.jpg021Check the curve so bias can be prepared with steam2015-08-02T08:33:38+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/07/27/another-winter-jacket/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3404.jpgIMG_3404Back and sleeve detailhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3400.jpgIMG_3400Marfy jacket in linenhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3420.jpgIMG_3420Pattern pieces for sleeve and hem facinghttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3419.jpgIMG_3419Pattern changes to include inverted pleat and swing backhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3418.jpgIMG_3418Diagram of an underarm sleeve gussethttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3417.jpgIMG_3417Gusset patternhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3412.jpgIMG_3412Beau has been helping me with the blog - he has his own cushion (formerly a pin cushion)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3411.jpgIMG_3411Back detailhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3410.jpgIMG_3410Side and back detailhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3408.jpgIMG_34082021-05-18T02:57:21+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/07/20/how-can-we-make-commercial-patterns-fit/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/m7169.jpgM7169https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/v1004.jpgV1004Vogue 1004 Fitting shell useful for bodices and skirtshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/v1004.gifV1004Palmer Pletsch Dresshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/todaysfit.pngtodaysfithttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/melissawatson.jpgmelissawatsonhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/palmerpletsch.jpgpalmerpletschhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3373.jpgIMG_3373It can be difficult to take your own measurements accurately. A sewing buddy can be a great help.2015-07-21T05:01:07+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/07/12/another-beautiful-bride/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/dscf4226.jpegDSCF4226https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_5241.jpegIMG_5241A beautiful setting.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_5215.jpegIMG_5215The lovely bride and her proud fatherhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4538-21.jpegIMG_4538 (2)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4538-2.jpegIMG_4538 (2)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4551.jpegIMG_4551Rocio and Jameshttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4538.jpegIMG_4538Close up detail.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4511.jpegIMG_4511https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3152.jpgIMG_3152All layers stitched in place on undersidehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3149.jpgIMG_3149Shaped basque2015-07-20T09:12:26+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/07/05/collars-tips-and-techniques/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/diagrams-4-9-copy-51.jpgDiagrams 4-9 - Copy (5)Clip cornerhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/diagrams-4-9-copy-41.jpgDiagrams 4-9 - Copy (4)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/diagrams-4-9-copy-31.jpgDiagrams 4-9 - Copy (3)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/diagrams-4-9-copy-21.jpgDiagrams 4-9 - Copy (2)https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/v8746-standing-collar.jpgV8746 Standing Collarhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/turned-collar-with-thread-tail.jpgTurned Collar with Thread TailThread is pulled to turn collar pointhttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/trimmed-seam-allowance-diagram-7.jpgTrimmed Seam Allowance Diagram 7Seam allowances are trimmed so that they meet in the corner with no overlap and no gaphttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/replacement-for-diagram-6.jpgReplacement for Diagram 6Tuck thread between layershttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/replacement-for-diagram-5.jpgReplacement for Diagram 5Wrap thread back around the needle and take stitch across the corner.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/replacement-for-diagram-4.jpgReplacement for Diagram 42015-07-07T07:05:52+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/07/01/donna-karan-jacket-vogue-1263-part-4/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3368.jpgIMG_3368Collar has been narrowed to keep the integrity of the style but better suit body proportions.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3367.jpgIMG_3367Since the collar is such an important feature, I am really happy with the way it hugs the neck and rolls so beautifully.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3366.jpgIMG_3366Snag tool does an excellent job of repairing any thread pulls as well as burying thread tails.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3365.jpgIMG_3365https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3364.jpgIMG_3364https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3363.jpgIMG_3363https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3362.jpgIMG_3362https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3360.jpgIMG_3360Thread ends buried between layers.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3358.jpgIMG_3358Variegated DMC Cotton Perle 5 thread "wrapped" around each topstitch around edge of upper collar and then reversed for emphasis.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_3357.jpgIMG_3357Diagonal basting holds front edges in place for machine topstitching.2015-07-02T11:21:03+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/06/21/donna-karan-jacket-vogue-1263-part-3/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3340.jpgIMG_3340Hair canvass catch-stitched in the hem area of the jacket and sleeves.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3338.jpgIMG_3338Taped roll line will keep lapels in place.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3337.jpgIMG_3337Remaining collar section has been loosely pad-stitched.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3335.jpgIMG_3335Upper collar placed over the pad-stitched under collar. It now has good structure and appears much more like the photo of the original design.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3333.jpgIMG_3333Collar before pad stitchiing - very floppy with no defined shape.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3332.jpgIMG_3332Finished neckline support.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3331.jpgIMG_3331https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3330.jpgIMG_3330Back neckline support piece held over my hand to build in curved shape with small pad-stitches.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3327.jpgIMG_3327Dart take up fabric removed; hair canvass and fabric edges butted together and catch-stitched in place over opened fabric dart.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3326.jpgIMG_33262015-06-21T11:08:27+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/06/14/donna-karan-jacket-vogue-1263-part-2/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_33101.jpgIMG_3310Underside of pouch pockethttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_33061.jpgIMG_3306Pouch pocket with front edge topstitched. The back edge will be hidden once the seam above is sewn.2015-06-15T08:40:49+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/06/07/donna-karan-jacket-vogue-1263-part-1/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3259.jpgIMG_3259Pocket markings traced on to greaseproof for ease of marking. Must remember to reverse the markings!https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32581.jpgIMG_3258Seams vertically basted and ready for stitching.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32531.jpgIMG_3253Tailor's tacks mark dots and darts.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32461.jpgIMG_3246Sample flat fell seam with double thread topstitching gives the appearance of a padded seam.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32451.jpgIMG_3245https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32431.jpgIMG_3243https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_32411.jpgIMG_3241https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/v1263.jpgV1263Donna Karan jacket - made in cloquehttps://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/v1263.gifV1263Line drawing Vogue 1263https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3258.jpgIMG_3258Diagonal basting done - all ready for stitching.2025-08-06T22:15:42+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/05/31/set-in-sleeves/https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3240.jpgIMG_3240Sleeve should roll nicely out of the armhole.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3227.jpgIMG_3227Mark cutting lines for sleeve head on sleeve pattern; trace off and cut from thin wadding/batting. Bias grain helps the sleeve head mould to the upper arm area.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3224.jpgIMG_3224Mark sewing line around the sleeve cap and bodice armscye. Measure with tape measure laid flat inside the sleeve. Hold tape with finger to pivot around curves.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3236.jpgIMG_3236https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3235.jpgIMG_3235Custom fitting sleeve head with shoulder position marked with a snip and corners rounded.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/photo-71.jpgPhoto 7Pressing the seam allowance will make it much smoother but do not press beyond the seam line and into the garment.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/photo-61.jpgPhoto 6Pin sleeve cap to tailor's ham and steam. Use fingers to press the seam allowance only.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/photo-8.jpgPhoto 8Black rows are ease stitching - red row is permanent seam line. Easing causes the bias sections of the cap to stretch so seam line moves.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/photo-7.jpgPhoto 7Pinned right on seam line from inside the sleeve.https://sewingladyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/photo-51.jpgPhoto 5Carefully smooth easing back along the ease row nearest the seam line. The outer edge will remain fluted while the seam line area fits the armhole perfectly.2015-06-01T01:03:14+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/2015/01/17/why-sew-your-own-clothes/2015-01-17T12:06:18+00:00monthlyhttps://sewingladyblog.com/contact-me/2015-01-17T02:10:10+00:00weekly0.6https://sewingladyblog.com/tutorials/2015-01-25T03:47:15+00:00weekly0.6https://sewingladyblog.comdaily1.02025-10-28T00:13:26+00:00