The fabric is very soft and a little limp – the reason for the addition of the sew-in interfacing.
When using a sew-in interfacing, especially hair canvas, it is important not to add too much thickness when joining the outer seams. To avoid doing this, I cut a frame from the outer edges of the facing piece from black cotton muslin. The same grain line has been used and the frame trimmed to 1 ½” / 3cm wide.
The hair canvas was tacked and then stitched in place at the inside edge of the frame and machine stitched in place. Excess hair canvas has been trimmed back so that when the facing is applied to the garment, only the muslin will be included in the seam allowances.
The dart take up has been trimmed away from the four neckline darts and the hair canvass has been butted together over the open darts and stitched in place using catch-stitching.
To support the back neckline area of the collar, I have included an overlay of hair canvass along the roll line. Dense pad-stitching has been applied within the collar stand area which will support the weight of the collar.
I have also taped the roll line with cotton tape (fell stitched in place on either side on the lapel side of the roll line).
The remaining collar section of the interfacing has been lightly pad-stitched.
Strips of hair canvas have also been catch-stitched over the hem line on the garment and sleeve hems. This will keep the hem edges in shape during the life of the garment.
During the next week I will be setting the sleeves, stitching the hems and applying the facing and lining.
Till next week.